My employees are all local and from the Darfur region. All of them are older than myself up to age 50 (some dont know how old they are). Most of them sport an Abdalla, Mohammed, or Ahmad somewhere in one of their three family names. One of them has two wives. Most have more than five children. They tease one more than others, calling him “The Redblood” in Arabic because they say he’s part Janjaweed. They come to work everyday wearing the same dirty getup they do the previous day (and remember we live in a dusty dirty desert). Most wear ragged and worn sandals. When they leave they put on a button down long sleeve shirt over the work clothes to walk home in a presentable manner. I would venture to say after seeing their closest nearby home (a hut) that it takes most a minimum of 30 minutes to walk to and from to work.
They are my laborers and bust their ass all day moving everything from tents, vehicle engines, tools, beds, refrigerators, bricks, toilet paper, and bottled water, among thousands of other things. They laugh a lot and have great motivating songs/cheers when the work is hard. They always refer to me as Mr. Matt. Only one of them speaks English but most understand the basic words we’ve associated with items we move frequently. I tell them quantities in Arabic and often do a lot of pointing and drawing descriptions on my notepads to help them understand. They tell me I’m becoming Sudanese and if I give them two years, I’ll have the official nod of approval as a bonefide countryman.
They respect me a lot because I respect them. A lot of the managers down here who deal with the locals treat them as inferior and incapable. Part of the problem is language barriers. There is also a degree of education that is lacking and you can tell some are void of common sense when they do some of their loading, but overall, give them the chance, and they’ll prove their worth. My predecessor used to say they’re like children and always have to be watched, but I think it’s more a lack of clear guidance. Not to mention the empowerment you feel when you know your boss has faith in you. So I work them hard, let them do the job providing a basic framework and I have very few problems.
Sometimes I provide them with gum or cokes. It interesting how anything that the mission considers used, broken, or rubbish is immediately looked upon by them as an opportunity. We have a daily trash truck that has most of the local employee eyes big as it moves around the compound. When I have used wood, old tubes from replaced tires, or broken chairs among others, they always ask me how I can find a way to get it out of the compound without going on the trash truck. When it goes on the truck, it goes to the market or another location (I cannot pinpoint) and the ‘trash’ is emptied and sorted, then sold or used. Portions of the money go to just about everyone, the local security guards, trash guys, laborers, etc. They tell me if I get my rubbish out of the compound and take it to one of their places, they can sell it on the local market and split the profits among themselves, cutting out all the tariffs the security guards and others charge. Now we pay these guys somewhere in the range of 50,000 Dinar a month, which equals a little over $225 USD. That is above the local going rate. I don’t think you want to do the daily or hourly calculations.
The first time they asked me I was a bit hesitant, thinking, “Is this legit?’ Regardless, if it goes on our truck or via me, it’s going to get used or sold. I don’t mind helping them earn a little extra on the side, knowing we have no more use for these items. Plus I was curious to see how the guys live. So we loaded up some old tire tubes and I drove to one of their houses. The drive there was the most locally eccentric scene imaginable. Little kids with skinny arms and big eyes are playing outside of the grass reeded fences surrounding a hut or locally constructed sandy brick building. People stared at me in curiosity as I slowly weaved through the maze of huts which they live in. Donkeys, some trash, a few trees, and lots of random locals filled the panorama. Everything was poverty stricken.
I dropped off the old tubes and made my way back. I used to question when it rained, did these guys stay dry and out of the elements. That answer was an obvious, no, once I saw how they lived. Makes me feel spoiled.
Anyway, like I’ve said in previous posts, it is fun to grow with these guys and see how capable they really are. Some days I’m torn, thinking, should I give them some extra money or something of value as a sign I’m not a greedy westerner and oblivious to their plight? The finance in me says, just show them who you are, treat them with respect, give them opportunities for success and they’ll appreciate that the most.
As so it goes, day in day out.
The situation on the ground has escalated in that there have been more attacks on nearby locals. We’ve had IDP folks come into the town and camps looking for shelter. Seeing this reminds you of the TV commercials in America that offer to sponsor a child, feed the world, etc, etc. Families come in droves walking in slow hope, carrying their small children in their arms and few possessions on their heads or donkey carts. There are very few smiles. You cant tell if the looks’ on their faces are saying, please help me for I am lost and in need, or don’t go in that direction. The old women, whose colorful garb still can’t outshine their 5000 wrinkles of character, bring up the rear of the group in a slow wobbly saunter. While absorbing the entire visual, you find your jaw unknowingly lowering in pure astonishment. You realize this is for real. You often see poor folks here but this is impoverished at the extreme. The people have nothing, no home, no possessions, no livelihood.
Anyway, the African Union has been taking some heat because of these very attacks. They have not responded as a protection force should (due to lots of reasons), and are tight lipped (or speechless) in their public relations. They are at a critical point (having a donor’s conference tomorrow [during an organizational low point]) and are uncertain of the future and the UN’s entry (as Sudan has continually refused to officially invite/allow the “Western Imperialistic” organization into Darfur).
So our plans for expansion have been on hold until further notice of diplomatic congruencies.
Meanwhile, I’ve been working closely with my local staff and have thoroughly enjoyed doing so. One of the main importance’s of international org’s in impoverished areas is to provide not just the fish but the knowledge to fish. Most folks in these spectrums will agree, the best work is done when you provide insight and mentorship for local individuals to thrive beyond their normal limited perspective of everyday life. Educating them is the primary reason for poverty here. Those who have an education can command better jobs and higher pay, then can afford for their children to have better opportunities. The only problem is that education simply isn’t stressed or available in many of the simplistic, survival based areas.
So I’ve allowed my vehicle parts staff members to spend mornings in the vehicle workshops learning as much about the mechanics of vehicles as possible. My other lead warehouse local is taking English lessons in town and I’m tutoring him afterwards. He was previously a math teacher but limited in his ability to move forward because of his lack of English. So we’re trying to overcome this obstacle. (I did get in trouble though for giving them both a (well deserved) raise by bypassing those who I thought might object – but it’s now said and done so I’ll move forward.)
Working closely has been a fun learning experience. Most Sudanese are dedicated and eager to please. They are inviting and courteous. It’s a nice mix of southern hospitality and unique eastern manners all in one. I’m fairly certain I’ll be leaving after my contract ends in November to study a language for half a year before grad school so I’ll just absorb and reflect what I can until then.
My next leave, due in August, is six weeks away. One thing nice about this job is that you do get six weeks a year to travel around, plane tickets paid in full. I’ve been trying to decide on a region to explore. I’m not going to come back to the states on this break simply because there’s a lot there to see and the opportunity is right. I’d like to travel around central and southern Africa but I think I’ll wait until winter time when it’s warmer down south. I’m pretty certain on a decision to tour Eastern Europe and Egypt.
I’m going to start in Budapest, Hungary, spend a few days there (take my GMAT and GRE for a possible dual masters next year) and indulge afterwards in a popular wine festival taking place in the city. Once finished, I’ll take an overnight train to Bucharest, Romania for a few days, then another train to Istanbul, Turkey. I hear the train ride in the mountains off the Black Sea down Romania and Bulgaria is quite a ride. In Istanbul I plan to hang out, maybe buy some carpets, haggle, get pick pocketed, then fly over to Cairo where I’ll explore the city, pyramids, and sphinx. Towards the end of the trip I’ll catch a quick flight to the Red Sea coastline and spend the last leg in Sharm El Shiek, Egypt. They have great reefs to snorkel and enjoy true R&R. I’m hoping to take a day trip up the sea into Petras, Jordan (think Indiana Jones, ‘only the penitent man may pass’). It should be a good 17 day break; something to anticipate.
I’m deep into the rotten vigors of studying for these exams, spending tired nights doing so. My one sanctity is that the only real distractions are the world cup games, which are becoming fewer. I just watched Argentina lose to Germany in penalty kicks. We have a little 16-way bet going ($100 buy in) with some guys here. Each drew a team from the final 16 out of a hat. I drew Ukraine, a long shot, but they are still in it. We’ll find out later tonight if I make the final four. It would be a nice $1600 pot if I win but I know it’s more than a long shot! (They lost.)
I read an interesting article about how the world cup represents true globalization in the political spectrum. Check it out…a good read.
Sometimes I think about how we’re in mid summer and I’m here working day to day, not being able to enjoy it fully like I did as a youth. On weekends I wonder who has gone to the river or lakes in Texas. I remember summer camps and sports and all the fun things we did as kids to fill the time. I remember not being able to sleep the night before my first day of school for the upcoming year, spanning the realm of what the year might entail, seeing folks again, curious at petty things like who plumped up over the summer. My biggest thought into the future at that time had nothing to do with career, for that was too far off. Now it seems everything is on a five year plan with no youthful escape. Maybe that’s one reason I’m looking forward to going back to school.
It’s interesting when you make the decision to live here in the now as opposed to living for the future. As a person young in my career, I know many my age want to skip the dirty work, the years where you do your time and build experience for real responsibility down the line. Generation X’ers want everything now. As a kid, for the most part you were able to live in the here and now. Now into my career, it’s mostly about slow steps using patience and diligence, building the foundation during the uphill climb.
I wonder when the stage will come where I can return to enjoying living in the here and now, maybe many hours and dollars later when ‘responsibility’ becomes less of driving force. I can only see my responsibilities getting greater over the years so I’m going to have to balance that thought, taking the opportunities I can to live free. I’m looking forward to my trip. This should be my next oasis for enjoying the moment.
